The Quiet American x 3

As readers of this blog can probably tell, I journeyed to Vietnam recently. I liked it. Alot. Years ago I travelled to Macau, and found that very interesting too: a Mediterranean (Portuguese) city in Asia. Well, its similar in VN: French colonial architecture (in places), in Asia, and you can pay in US dollars. An unusual mix. Although I made an effort to pay in VN dollars (Dong)... I was in Vietnam after all, not Kansas. It is a dizzying place, a heady mix of intense humidity, whizzing motorscooters, stunning food, appealling local design and handcraft work, women wearing a gorgeous 'national dress' of a long silk blouse and silk pants, terrific coffee*, colourful lizards scurrying through the jungle – all set amidst a backdrop of 'tropical Frenchness'. Quite a unique mix. It made quite an impression. I had always wanted to travel there after reading The Quiet American as a youngster (still a favourite novel of mine, having re-read it recently).

There are significant efforts to grow and develop the Vietnamese tourism industry, which is a great 'earner' for the country. Saigon is the site of some recent yet rather faceless, bland 'vertical development' (which is, I guess, inevitable). But the French aspect to the city is captivating: 1920's French architecture (well, buildings built by local artisans in the 'French style'), some of which as been skillfully and deftly renovated (some not). Strolling down the tree-lined boulevards popping into a café for a quick bowl of phở, then another café for some great espresso – Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City as it's now known, got a big 'tick' from me. A most interesting and determinedly 'alive' place.

One hopes the colonial French influence on the city isn't pushed aside and concreted over by overzealous and nationalistic city officials and planners – they would be eradicating a significant aspect of the city's personality – and history –  by doing so. (I'm sure they're aware of the appeal and charm of their colonial environs). Also, lets keep the cars out of Saigon proper too (not that there are that many) – which may prove to be impossible as the economy develops. But if the city proper was only for pedestrians, cyclists, cyclos and motoscooters (and slow-moving taxis) – Saigon would retain it's wonderful, stroll-able ambience, and be a must-see destination (along with the rest of the country).

* In regard to the local coffee, 'buyer beware' with weasel coffee – and beware of fakes – although they may be a safer bet.

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Related to the theme of The Quiet American:

+ A photo gallery of Saigon from the 1950s (or perhaps the early 60s?) – approximately the same era in which Greene wrote The Quiet American. It's interesting to note there are more cars in these old shots of the city than are found there today (which is a big plus for me).

+ Quiet American: soundscapes of Vietnam.

+ The making of Phillip Noyce's terrific film of Greene's novel. Also, the trailer:



The film features one of Michael Caine's very best performances and some stunning cinematography by Christopher Doyle.

A BBC documentary on the talented Doyle.

Comments

[peacay]

Shame (for you) that you only got to HCM and Hoi An (if I'm remembering your comments correctly). Sooo much nicer up north imho. Hanoi and HCM are poles apart. Both have their charms of course but I much prefer the north. At least you can convince yourself that it's not as humid-O-hot up there (fallacy, save for Dec/Jan)! I say put a trip to the north on your todo list for the future.

[Andrew Haig]

I know, I know....

Have had my knuckles rapped by many a person who's travelled to VN for not seeing Hanoi. Unfortunately we only had a week, and a friend of ours who is Vietnamese said: "hmmm... one week.... Hanoi has much more culture, but the food is better in HCM."

We unanimously, instantaneously chose food (!). I also had 'The Quiet American' in the back of my mind too (stayed at The Majestic – wow, where Greene wrote much of the book, and we spent some time exploring the city via Greene's description of it too).

Hanoi and northern VN sights very firmly on my travel radar.

[The Worst of Perth]

What an amazing novel it is. Reminds me in some ways of Kingsley Amis' Lucky Jim. Totally undeserving yet sympathetic winners in difficult situations. I have recently had a sudden urge to learn Vietnamese, but have no idea how difficult it is. After 6 years of Mandarin i expect it is doable. Would really love to visit the country. What was the Majestic like?